OPENING:
A cocoa-nut grove – a brightly coloured kingfisher, though less
beautiful than the European species – an ancient church, with its
tombstones of governors and captain-generals – the cathedral and
its organ, sending forth inharmonious cries.
Darwin,
Charles (1809-1882). The naturalist on board the Beagle. His voyage
on land will turn the page of his mind; his Journal of Researches the
page of his life.
*
SCENE
ONE: An evening concert – theatre scenery – a famous tree,
revered as a God – a night under the open sky – an immense troop
of mares swimming.
The
landscape, a brilliant tint like that of great theatres, lit only by
fireflies. Crickets, in a shrill pitch, ceaselessly cry; small frogs
pleasingly chirp, to the sound of rain dripping on leaves, countless
leaves. A humble concert.
A
tree, without any neighbour, has offerings made to it, tied to its
branches by threads: cigars, bread; has horses sacrificed to it,
their bones, bleached by the sun, scattered round its trunk.
An
open-air camp: pasture, a muddy puddle, meat and firewood. The high
life of horseback travel, where one might reflect on marked pictures
of the day: the canoe delayed by hundreds of heads, all directed one
way; their pointed ears and distended nostrils just above the water.
Mares swimming, on the order of soldiers.
SCENE
TWO: The
ostrich – wild dogs and common cats – peach and orange-trees –
attacks on and of Indians – slaughter.
A
deep-toned hissing the note of the ostrich running against the wind,
wings expanded , a vessel making sail. A speciman of the second type,
smaller than the Common, its plumage a different colour, called after
Darwin: Rhea
darwinii.
Wild
dogs heard to howl on wooded banks; the common cat, now a large and
fierce animal, is known to inhabit rocky hills.
Springing
from seeds, peach and orange-trees – the olive too, clothe islands
with their fruit and fresh green leaves.
Indians
roams about the plains, without a home or fixed occupation. A war of
extermination.
The
beef-eating population champion the unfair struggle: the bullock
dragged to the spot, its hamstrings cut, gives the death bellow:
Agony! Agony!
All
countries, Darwin tells us, have darker interior pictures.
SCENE
THREE: Bands
of butterflies – little aeronaut – a most beautiful spectacle –
Port Desire.
One
evening at sea butterflies came, extended as far as the eye could
range. A seaman cried, 'It was snowing butterflies.'
Then
one day a little aeronaut arrived, letting itself on board repeatedly
fall and reascend the same thread; its stock of web inexhaustible.
One
very dark night, the sea glowed with a pale light, every crest of
every wave bright, and sky reflected.
At
Port Desire, on the coast of Patagonia, the naturalist steps ashore,
bearing himself, one imagines, with dignity; those that later came
had more notorious fame: Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid.
From
journal, December 2021.
Picture credit: HMS Beagle by the ship's artist Conrad Martens, (source: Wikipedia).
See Voyage of the Beagle
by Charles Darwin.