Thursday 15 February 2024

The Road to Byron

Intrigued by Bruce Chatwin's mention of his spineless and floodstained copy of Robert Byron's
The Road to Oxiana, and of how he attempted to ape Byron's itinerary and journal style I obtained my own well-bound, less marked library volume. While I have no wish to follow Chatwin following Byron's actual footsteps I could at least try to understand, I thought, why Oxiana is considered a masterpiece of 1930s travel writing, and compare too Chatwin and Byron's two journal entries: 5 July 1962 and 21 September 1933. Of the first it's too soon to say if I agree with the masterly verdict, though it's certainly enjoyable; of the second the similarities are all too obvious.
However, Byron moves in circles unknown to me. His companion Christopher is not explained. In Palestine Christopher is 'received as the son of his father.' Who is his father? On the next page I gather his father is Sir Mark Sykes. Still a blank, that is, it means nothing, but at least it's a name.
Who is Rutter? Perhaps a fellow correspondent for a London newspaper if I presume Byron was in that line already or knew associates in it?
Who is Herzfeld? I'm left with the distinct impression he must be an archaeologist, or at the very least has a keen interest in archaeology, who, 'it seems, has turned Persepolis into his private domain.'
Names and networking. What Oxiana doesn't provide I must research. Alternatively, I could, I suppose, accept my conjectures.
*
I continue to read with one eye on the journey and one eye gathering information: Christopher breadcrumbs. Christopher is fond of Persia. Christopher has friends in prominent positions. Christopher reads Gibbon; he must therefore like history. Christopher's hero is a German soldier called Wassmuss. Christopher told the Tabriz police (in French) he was a philosphe. (Byron said he was a painter, whereas Wikipedia lists him as an author, historian and art critic.) Christopher is liked by biting insects, particularly fleas.
Christopher Hugh Sykes, English writer, second son of Conservative Party politician and diplomatic advisor Sir Mark Sykes. (I failed to take note of his mother, not even her name, for which I now feel ashamed; his sister however did raise sufficient interest for me to jot 'Sculptor'. A clue perhaps to more I possibly thought but didn't follow up.) Christopher led a full and active life, stints here and there – in the Foreign Office and British Embassy in Berlin where Harold Nicolson was counsellor, before switching to Oriental Studies and pursuing other adventures. He married too (with issue), though again I didn't note who or when, and so the legacy of Sykes' continues.
Christopher explained, though the information gained unsupported by any other source other than Wikipedia.
The Herzfeld breadcrumbs grow but remain unsolved. At a lunch Byron introduces him as 'Professor', and Herzfeld speaks, to dissipate the boredom, of his domesticated porcupine. There it stops...then, some pages later, I think to turn to the index...Aha! Professor Ernst Herzfeld.
Who, though, is Noel?
I will never know who Noel is, who the Noels were – a party (of Noels) was mentioned, but I have verified from an unreliable source that Ernst Emil Herzfeld was a German archaeologist and Iranologist, who was appointed Professor of Middle Eastern Archaeology in Berlin in 1920. He surveyed and documented many historical sites, but was later forced to leave his professorship in 1935 due to his Jewish descent.
Another Byron-dropped name is demystified.

From journal (from a series of Byron entries), August-September 2022. 

See The Road to Oxiana (Vintage Books) by Robert Byron.

Picture credit: Robert Byron (source: Good Reads).